7 myths about surfing
March 14, 2023“You need to learn surfing when you are young” and “surfers are lazy” are two commonly heard myths about surfing. Maybe you heard them before? Let’s get to the bottom of these misconceptions, learn the actual fact behind them, and set them straight. Here are seven myths:
When it comes to surfing, there are many misconceptions out there. No matter if you just started to surf or have been in the waves for a while, there's a good chance you came across some (or all) of these statements. Here are 7 commonly heard surfing myths, let’s separate the truth from the myths and put the record straight!
Myth #1: You have to be crazy fit to surf
You might see surfers paddling out to the surf spot in no time and running around the beaches with a six-pack. And yes, there are many very fit surfers out there but you don’t need to be in the best shape of your life to learn how to surf. Being in a good physical condition and having alright swimming abilities are of course preferable when surfing, after all, if you are in the ocean you need to be able to swim! But don’t get intimidated by the pressure of needing to be really fit to start, you will get by with a basic fitness level.
Myth #2: Surfing isn’t dangerous
When looking at videos and pictures of people surfing on social media all we see are happy faces and friends smiling at each other but bear in mind that surfing is a high-risk sport. Stinging marine life, rip currents, getting smashed into a reef and heavy wipeouts are real dangers and can be scary. Getting hit in the head with a surfboard is a common way to get injured while surfing, and that isn't too much fun either.
Note: The intention here isn't to scare you, but to make you mindful of the ocean and respect its powers. If you’re just careful in the waves and listen to your instructor you will be safe and have a good time!
Myth #3: You have to live in a tropical paradise to surf
When people think of surfing, images from Hawaii, Byron Bay, or California may pop up in their minds. But you don’t need to live in a surf paradise to be able to surf, great waves are found all over the world! Besides surfing in warm places like Bali and Sri Lanka, you can also find phenomenal surf on the East Coast of the United States, Portugal, England, and Norway (among many other places). You can also go surf in the icy water of Iceland, go river surfing in Munich, or surf in a wave pool in Switzerland!
Myth #4: Surfers are lazy
The myth that surfers are a bunch of lazy people has been around for ages. There are surfers who are living a careless lifestyle with the mindset that everything works out, which can be associated with being lazy. And sure, some surfers do live a chill life and use most of their time on the beach, but in reality, most surfers have normal jobs like everyone else. The A-list actor Chris Hemsworth is a well-known surf lover, and we wouldn't really call him lazy, right?
Myth #5: Surfing is only for the summertime
Even though the beaches are more crowded in the summer, the water is warmer and the waves are usually more beginner-friendly – you can surf all year round! If you live in a place where there are surfable waves, all you need is a thick enough wetsuit (and maybe a pair of wetsuit shoes and gloves) and you are good to go!
Myth #6: You have to learn to surf while you are young
Sure, starting with any skill is much easier if you start young, but not learning to surf because you feel too old is nonsense! You probably won’t join the pro surfer club, but you can get good at surfing and have the best time doing so even if you start in your twenties, thirties, forties or later! There is no age limit to surfing, so don't think that it's too late!
Myth #7: Surfing is easy to be good at
This myth may come from how easy surfing looks from the eye of someone who never stood on a surfboard before. But getting good at surfing takes years and years, so don't get discouraged or feel beaten down if you haven't become great within your first year or two. Learning to surf is probably one of the hardest things you’ll do! And that’s a huge part of why it’s such an amazing thing. One of the great things about surfing is that the learning curve is hard and you need to stay persistent to get good at it. Surfing is fun, thrilling, and exciting – but not easy!
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